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Novice Photographer is the world's oldest weekly journal for images lovers. With its detailed weekly layout, it's the first for information and electronic and picture gear assessments. general gains on reader portfolios, darkroom, electronic, black & white and photographer profiles verify all parts of images are covered.

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So now that the camera has been loaded and an exposure made, what's next? 37 Jim Shull • Chemicals The standard chemicals are in readiness in the trays; developer, stop bath, fix and water wash. They will function at temperatures between 50° to 100°. The ideal temperature is 68°, give or take 10°. The exposed paper is first placed in the tray of DEVELOPER for about 2 minutes, then dunked in the tray of STOPBATH for 10 to15 seconds, then into the FIXER tray for 5 to 8 minutes, then to the water WASH for awhile (usually the longer the better).

The dry method generally results in better prints but the wet method can be done as soon as the negative gets to the wash. • Wet When the negative is in the wash, an unexposed piece of paper is also placed in the wash for a minute or two. Then the negative and the positive-to-be are placed together face to face (emulsion surface to emulsion surface) on some sort of support and the excess water and air bubbles are skooshed out. Make sure the negative is between the source of white light and the unexposed paper, which usually means the negative is on top.

The focal length is the distance from the hole to where the film is. So if the hole is one inch in diameter and the focal length is 6 inches (distance from hole to film plane), the ratio is 1:6, or F/6. 00 = f/277 (f/280 is close enough) This is another reason for not using a light meter; even the best seldom chart beyond f/45. 57 Jim Shull To save you from tiresome calculations, here's a table: Needle no. 018" pinhole. " With pinhole the shutter speed is usually more than 15 seconds and can even be hours.

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